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(@admin)
Member Admin
Dołączył: 1 rok temu
Posty: 37
 

Whether the repair will be under warranty we are able to assess only after a technical expertise in our office.

In my opinion – from what you write it will turn out that you have made a short circuit in the electrical system – which caused burning of the PCB tracks. But of course, I can’t be sure. This type of damage is not covered by the warranty.

An option is to order new PCBs – but replacing them is difficult, and we do not recommend this for people who do not have much experience in electronics. It may also turn out that other components are damaged and replacing the boards will not help.


   
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(@bill110366)
Eminent Member
Dołączył: 8 miesięcy temu
Posty: 27
Topic starter  

Hello all,

I received my box’s back after you determined that everything was correct on them. In other Words, I made a wrong setup, or wrong connection at my personal Dome build. 

I started today to put both boxes back to place in the Dome today. 

Before I put power ON, let me ask what could be a stupid question:

Is the box supposed to start up just by switching it On, I mean, at this moment, without any Computer connected to the Box? 

Is the screen supposed to come alive with no Computer connected to it? 

Or do I need to connect a computer by LAN or USB in order to get a proper startup? 

Sorry for this question. But I was reading on and on your documentation, and there is nothing about this. 

I don’t know if the self-contained Arduino card is doing the job, or is a PC required in order to fire up everything..

Thanks


   
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(@bill110366)
Eminent Member
Dołączył: 8 miesięcy temu
Posty: 27
Topic starter  

Good evening 

First of all, please ignore my previous message dated 15 January, I managed to finally start my control boxes, great news.

The Master box is connected, and the rotation motor is behaving the correct way. The Box is showing connected on the computer. So half of the Dome is working fine 👍 

But I have a problem with the Shutter box, I have no response from it.

On the shutter Box itself, I have two red LED lit, one on the right side of the box (no marking or label to say what it means), and one on the front panel for marked „Rain sensor”.

No response when selecting „Open”. 

 

On the Master Box display, the shutter is showing „Closed”, which is correct. („Close actuator” in close position on the shutter)

AC power is delivered to the shutter Box.

Any idea ?


   
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(@bill110366)
Eminent Member
Dołączył: 8 miesięcy temu
Posty: 27
Topic starter  

And by the way, the Slave box shows „Disconnected” in the Arduino Test App. 

Capture

 


   
OdpowiedzCytat
(@admin)
Member Admin
Dołączył: 1 rok temu
Posty: 37
 

Try to reprograming radio connection. Look on card manual on page 12.

d) pairing BlueTooth modules of Master and Slave cards- connect the power supply for both cards- program the cards – one as Master, the other as Slave- turn the power of both cards off and on- wait about 30 seconds- on Main card press and hold (simultaneously) CW+CCW+CCD buton – on SLAVE card OPEN+CLOSE+FAN (simultaneously) buton- pairing will take about one minute- if both BlueTooth modules communicate correctly, they will start to signal it by flashing synchronously on both cards with an LED
in the rhythm – flash, flash, brake (flash – 0.5s, break 1s


   
OdpowiedzCytat
(@bill110366)
Eminent Member
Dołączył: 8 miesięcy temu
Posty: 27
Topic starter  

Already tried this, no success.. 

I read somewhere in a Manual the should be a physical connection button on the Arduino Card? I cannot locate those push button.. 

When switching the master box to ON, I have one LED on the Shutter box right side, and one on the Rain sensor. And I have power on the box (several LED are blinking inside the Box)

I opened both box to take a look inside at the LED. The is one red BT LED blinking quite rapidly on each box.

Just to make sure, When trying your Method above, do I need to push those 6 switches at the same time for 60s ? Because, when carefully pushing all together on the Master box CW+CCW+CCD button, The Dome starts to rotate CW for about 270° ! I cannot stop this rotation.  


   
OdpowiedzCytat
(@admin)
Member Admin
Dołączył: 1 rok temu
Posty: 37
 

Hi,
please look on Card Manual page 7. There is Pair button described.


   
OdpowiedzCytat
(@bill110366)
Eminent Member
Dołączył: 8 miesięcy temu
Posty: 27
Topic starter  

No way. I found the button, but nothing happens….

Now, Even Ethernet connection seems hazardous.. I managed to activate the green LED for OPEN Shutter, but of course the motor doesn’t react..

How long do I need to press the physical button?

Do I need to press them at the same time, or on after the other one ?


   
OdpowiedzCytat
(@bill110366)
Eminent Member
Dołączył: 8 miesięcy temu
Posty: 27
Topic starter  

Ok, answering myself: Pairing with the physical buttons requires both buttons to be pressed at the same time for about 10s.

 

So far, I managed to restore communication with both boxes. 

I have power to the power outlet (light outlet is activated by the dedicated switch on the shutter box for ex)

But I still have no reaction from the shutter motor when I press OPEN. 

On the display, the shutter is indicated CLOSED. (which is correct)

On the Card-Test App, Status page, The „master” indicates 230v ticked. 

The „Slave” 230v is not ticked. Is that telling me I have no AC delivered to the motor?

Photothèque   1 sur 1 (1)

 


   
OdpowiedzCytat
(@admin)
Member Admin
Dołączył: 1 rok temu
Posty: 37
 

It display 230V sensor input status – it have nothing to shutter motor.

Wysłany przez: @bill110366

The „Slave” 230v is not ticked. Is that telling me I have no AC delivered to the motor?

 


   
OdpowiedzCytat
(@bill110366)
Eminent Member
Dołączył: 8 miesięcy temu
Posty: 27
Topic starter  

Ok, I believe I found the problem:

When connecting the PE wire coming from the Cog Rim, My Differential circuit breaker is triggered. 

If I disconnect the PE wire from the Cog Rim, it works, and I have power to the shutter motor, and the 3 power outlets. 

So the PE wire is creating a short circuit. 

Since I cannot get the shutter motor to work, I suspected a problem on that motor.

I opened the junction box of the motor. There are 4 wires. I checked the black wire, which is screwed onto the metallic Motor frame, with the PE wire from the Cog Rim, and was surprised to find this wire not connected.

I opened the shutter box and checked the wires from the connector 12 (the one going to the motor). 

Here is a drawing of what I found (see attached pdf)

As you can see, the red wire, connected to the U of the Inverter, is connected to the Metallic Motor frame. (Black wire on the picture screwed onto the Motor frame)

Photothèque   1 sur 2 (1)
Photothèque   2 sur 2 (1)

 

The Ground Wire from the Inverter is connected to U, V and W on the Motor Connection box.

It cannot be to have a ground wire connected to the 3 Phase (U, V and W) ?  

And it cannot be to have U connected to the Motor metallic frame? 

Please let me know.

 

 


   
OdpowiedzCytat
(@admin)
Member Admin
Dołączył: 1 rok temu
Posty: 37
 

Your diagram is completely unreadable. It is difficult to understand it.
The motor should be connected to the inverter this way:

PE to PE
U to U
V to V
W to W

If the flap will open instead of closing – simply swap the U and W wires on the motor.


   
OdpowiedzCytat
(@bill110366)
Eminent Member
Dołączył: 8 miesięcy temu
Posty: 27
Topic starter  

My diagram is completely unreadable? 

Ok, let me put this way:

U to PE

V to U, V, W

W to U, V, W

PE to U, V, W

Is that more readable?

I paid your plug and pay kit over 3000€ and found a Motor wiring which could have killed me (U to PE amongst other….)

I’m very disappointed the way you treat your customers; I need about 2 days to get answers, sometimes very straight forward answers like: „look on Card Manual page 7.”, no more description of the pairing procedure, find out yourself…

And now a complete wrong and dangerous wiring, and a simple „unreadable diagram” as an answer? I spent 4 hours to make this troubleshoot and the drawing..

I believe my drawing is very clear, but find your service and after sale very poor.

I will proceed with the change of the Wiring, and hope it’s gonna work now.

Regards

 


   
OdpowiedzCytat
(@admin)
Member Admin
Dołączył: 1 rok temu
Posty: 37
 

Exactly the same thing was evident from your diagram – only that such connections are totally pointless – also not visible in the photo you sent. What you have drawn is one big short circuit , which will most likely burn up the inverter.

I suppose that you measured the connections with the inverter and motor connected, and instead of wires the meter showed you the resistance of the motor windings.

ps. you usually get answers the same or next day. Just check the dates on the forum.


   
OdpowiedzCytat
(@bill110366)
Eminent Member
Dołączył: 8 miesięcy temu
Posty: 27
Topic starter  

I fully agree: „pointless wiring”, but that’s what I found with my Metrix.

To make the measurements, I disconnected first the connector 12 inside the Shutter box, and made then the Metrix check. So it was not going through the inverter. And I agree as well about the big short circuit ! That’s what I mentioned on 21 Jan when I said my differential circuit breaker triggered off-line. I was talking about this short circuit !

I found the wire U connected to the frame of the motor !

And every single V, W and PE connected to U, V and W together (probably through the Rotor windings of the motor, the inverter was disconnected and isolated from the measurements at this moment). This couldn’t work, and was necessarily making a short circuit. 

And finally, I disconnected all the wires on the motor side and checked the way of the connection: 

I found (from the inverter to the motor):

U to V

V to W

W to PE

PE to U

 

Now, I changed the wiring the way You said: 

PE to PE
U to U
V to V
W to W

The situation improved a lot:

First, I connected the PE wire from the Cog Rim to the shutter box, and no short circuit anymore, 👍 .

The motor is turning now (it never did before), when pressing „Close” on the shutter box (and it turns the correct direction). It also stops turning when I activate the LS Close switch. So that’s all good.

When I activate the LS close switch (to simulate the shutter Door completely closed), I can also see the indication turning red on the screen (stating „Shutter closed” and the red pointer).

All good 👍 

 

But I still have one problem left: The motor doesn’t turn when I press „Open”. I also see that the LS Open is not indicating anything on the screen (like the close switch that turn red when activated)

So I need to see if the LS Open switch is ok (Wiring 32). I checked the wiring from the 32 Pin connector (disconnected) inside the shutter box until the limit switch, that’s ok 👍 

So It looks like, either the limit switch has a problem, or the wiring is wrong. i need to investigate on this now. 

It’s not easy to follow the wiring colors, since they are not always the same as the ones on the technical drawing of the boxes. So not easy to recognize a possible wiring mistake (Like for the motor). 

Any help, suggestion on this ?

 


   
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